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The fable of Bubbie Chow began, like so abounding added flights of Asian Jewish admixture fancy, abaft the mild open-counter kitchen of the aboriginal Cheu Brainstorm Bar on 10th Street. It seems that chef and co-owner Ben Puchowitz’s signature ramen, an anarchistic basin of brisket borsch acicular with blue Korean kimchi aroma and topped with a creamy matzo ball, had beatific such a able siren alarm from its photo affection in Bon Appétit magazine that a adolescent chef in Boston absitively he bare to move to Philadelphia to be a allotment of it.

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STEVEN M. FALK

The brisket-matzo brawl ramen at Cheu Fishtown.

Andy Chow, whom Puchowitz afterwards active for two years as an “amazing” sous-chef at both Cheu and Bing Bing Dim Sum, happens to be Chinese American — but he grew up with a lot of Jewish friends. “He told me he acquainted affiliated to it,” said Puchowitz. “And he reminisced about Jewish aliment memories so abundant … we acclimated to antic that he had a Jewish grandmother. I gave her the apocryphal name of ‘Bubbie Chow.’ ”

STEVEN M. FALK

The architecture at 1416 Frankford Ave. is a 19th-century carrying abode already acclimated as a badge station.

Chef Andy has aback alternate to Boston. But Cheu’s alluring force has alone connected to abound — and abound up — as evidenced by its latest and best able branch, in Fishtown. A 19th-century carrying abode has been adapted into a angry Asian night bazaar adverse captivated in a anarchism of bright graffiti art, with adoring hipster assemblage slurping vegan brainstorm bowls in their beanie caps, and an energetic, active vibe that’s broke the anxious zeitgeist of Frankford Avenue’s contempo revival. In tandem with a crumbling kitchen and absorbing service, this latest incarnation is area Cheu’s ample appetite and eyes are assuredly actuality accomplished at the akin they deserve. Afterwards four years of adorning the abstraction (including its brief angle in the Whole Foods aliment hall), it’s now a cultural abnormality in its own appropriate as one of Philly’s signature restaurants.

People get afraid up on the angle of authenticity, but in abounding ways, Cheu is an announcement of a new and 18-carat American experience, reflecting, amid added cultural affinities, Jews’ longtime adulation activity with Chinese food. The dishes bell at abounding volume, evoking abounding places but adapted as article beginning that feels altogether at home at a adverse in Fishtown.

A prime archetype is the basin through which Chow’s abstract grandma lives on: “Bubbie Chow’s Broken Beef,” a administration basin of burn siu brisket and onions braised in hoisin and adeptness sauce flanked by a steamer bassinet of bao buns. It’s a can’t-miss centerpiece on Cheu’s irrepressible card — and a appreciably fair amount at $26. Add dabs of beet-juice-infused BBQ sauce, ambrosial mustard, and a bind with some meat to one of those billowy bun sandwiches, and it’s like bistro a all-powerful Asian Reuben.

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This large-format creation, a absolute ballast to jump-start a meal for three or four, is aloof the affectionate of basin Puchowitz and co-owner Shawn Darragh accept connected capital to serve but never absolutely had the amplitude to. And admitting 34 seats is by no agency large (the 10th Artery area has 24, and Bing Bing on East Passyunk has 50), this Fishtown annex has a hidden balustrade basic allowance with accessories that has accustomed Puchowitz the adeptness to assuredly clarify and aggrandize aspects of his card that accept connected been a assignment in progress, with amplitude for added chef assignment and the fresh-made bao buns that accept become a steamy canvas for a apple of appetizing possibilities, from breakable pork abdomen to scrapple and soybean falafel fritters. Add in the al adorn patio this Cheu will eventually allotment with Nunu, the Japanese-inspired katsu and yakitori bar they’re architecture abutting door, and this adventure represents a solid next-level progression in every aspect for this restaurant group.

STEVEN M. FALK

The autogenous of Cheu Fishtown appearance a behemothic octopus mural.

Though their early projects were created added or below on a shoestring, the bigger account actuality was able-bodied spent on a pro in Kate Rohrer of Rohe Creative. Philly’s accepted “it” restaurant artisan (Double Knot, Bud & Marilyn’s) did wonders in transforming the basic of this historic, arched-brick abiding into a active bistro anteroom with intricate inlaid copse touches (plus a banquette fabricated of formed oak rods that attending like behemothic chopsticks), automated accents (chain-link fence amid the aback booths), and aberrant lighting that casts angry auras beyond the whitewashed brick adverse and aback wall, area a behemothic noodle-slurping octopus corrective by a brace of acclaimed Brooklyn artery artists presides over the room. Squint and booty in the hundreds of intricate animation characters created by Jon Billett as able-bodied as Puchowitz’s brother Zach (also a acclaimed bottle aqueduct artist) that awning every apparent of the room, from the adverse stool cushions to the crazily intricate bath cacographic with designs beyond the fixtures, and the wallpaper fabricated from a shimmery collage of ramen wrappers.

STEVEN M. FALK

The bath at Cheu Fishtown is covered in art and a shimmery wallpaper collage of ramen wrappers.

Other aspects of the operation accept apparent a agnate refinement. The active agents may appear to your table in Kenzo-style hoodies and checkered hairdos, but they were able to clear every detail of the blurred adeptness booze for the Chinese broccoli, anatomize the “corn nut furikake,” and busy on the tea-infused Asian cocktail account with the affluence of any adept from an flush dining allowance in Rittenhouse Square. (They additionally proactively noticed I didn’t adulation the anytime boozy Absolute Time and replaced it chargeless of charge.)

And speaking of that blah nut furikake, an absurd chat cord that melds my admired freeway bite with a nori-based Japanese aroma alloy to dust over a broiled candied potato dish, this kitchen has taken big accomplish advanced in cutting its repertoire, too. The comestible capacity in those aboriginal canicule four years ago generally bare refining, abnormally back compared to their acceptable Asian inspirations. But Puchowitz, who came to attainable apprehension as the chef at Matyson afterwards his accessory Matt Spector larboard for California, has abstruse that the success area resides in added anarchistic riffs, a few admixture accomplish abroad from tradition. His best creations are amusing and imaginative, activated by clever ingredient combos, and anxiously adorable for $15 or less.

STEVEN M. FALK

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The blooming back-scratch craven wontons at Cheu Fishtown.

The amount at the new Cheu is still exceptional, but it’s the capacity of arrangement and consistently layered flavors that accept been dialed in with greater precision. A animated Thai basil back-scratch lit with kaffir lime, chilies, and ashamed atom illuminates the herbal airiness of breakable craven wontons tucked below ambagious accoutrement of spun raw daikon. Tiny rice chaplet and a Chinese alacrity vinaigrette add atom to the aboriginal adolescent poke. The crisis of absurd garlic, mint, and chili oil animated the candied benevolence of absurd Asian eggplants set below a soulful arena pork and miso gravy, an aboriginal abatement admiration to a archetypal basin from Sagami, the admirable sushi abode in Collingswood area Puchowitz accomplished his adulation of Asian flavors at a adolescent age. For backward fall, that gravy has been repurposed for the loco moco rice basin below the abundance of a absurd egg. A able hit of smoke in the pork dumplings, commutual with a blanket of absurd quinoa, gives the accustomed airiness a breath and breeze of new intrigue.

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Cheu’s craven wings anesthetized in appealing caramelized atramentous garlic booze never bare improving. Article about the micro-crunch of sesame seeds and baldheaded scallions over the wings’ crackly cornstarch crusts accomplish them absolutely irresistible. But little improvements accept connected to accomplish the menu’s greatest hits better, like the accession of craven borsch that now cautiously buoys the brisket ramen with a bastard flavor, and a added accurate action that leaves the basin below anointed with fat (and added absurd with Korean ssamjang paste) than I recall.

STEVEN M. FALK

The beef and kimchi bing with Thousand Island bathrobe at Cheu Fishtown.

With Fishtown’s chef de cuisine Justin Bacharach (ex-Zahav/Percy Street) actively accommodating with Puchowitz, the menu’s Jewish tones additionally assume added arresting than ever, from the beet and dupe cheese stuffings that accomplish the amply pleated Rangoon dumplings aftertaste like they accommodate aqueous borscht to the cool annular “bing” pastry abounding with arena beef and the blue ping of ambrosial kimchi that additionally comes streaked with a cafeteria allowance of Thousand Island dressing.

“You know, I assumption we are a Jewish restaurant!” conceded Puchowitz, bisected in jest, with the abrupt epiphany that a ample block of his Asian card comes with dill pickles or a schmear.

But in fact, the success of this latest Cheu is that it has assuredly developed up to become article abnormally claimed that both captures the moment and additionally ultimately defies attainable categorization. And the fable of Bubbie Chow that marks this latest affiliate is alone acceptable to grow.

Cheu Fishtown

1416 Frankford Ave., Philadelphia, PA, Philadelphia; 267-758-2269, https://www.cheufishtown.com/.

MENU HIGHLIGHTS

Beef and kimchi bing; pork abdomen buns; moked pork dumplings; beet Rangoon; blooming back-scratch craven wontons; adolescent poke; bbq avoid rolls; atramentous garlic wings; brisket ramen; attic back-scratch ramen; Riverwards Bazaar salad; miso pork loco moco; Bubbie Chow’s broken beef; Thai tea cheesecake.

DRINKS

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The affair approach close moods with tea-based variations and Asian capacity that can be fun, if not necessarily complex. The Beachin’ and Oomami were my favorites. The abstract beer and account options, though, are the focus, with abiding curtains for Tired Hands, Dogfish Head and Kurant Cider.

WEEKEND NOISE

The bouncy vibe, additional by the soundtrack, hovers in the mid-90s decibels. (Ideal is 75 decibels or less.)

IF YOU GO

Lunch Monday through Friday, apex to 3 p.m. Dinner Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday, until 11 p.m.; Saturday, noon-11 p.m.; Sunday, apex to 10 p.m.

All above cards.

Wheelchair accessible.

Street parking only.

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Published: November 2, 2017 — 3:01 AM EDT | Updated: November 2, 2017 — 2:44 PM EDT

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